Our full day in Buenos Aries, January 24, began with a very nice included breakfast buffet – one of the top three or four we’ve had anywhere. The Alvear Palace continued to impress.
Next, we had a private tour of Buenos Aires. It began in the government-historic area.

We were in front of Casa Rosada, the seat of national government. It sits on the former site of the Fort of Buenos Aires, erected in 1580. The current building combined two structures in a symbolic way, putting a middle section between the two buildings formerly housing differing political ideals. Our guide says no one knows exactly why the building is pink. She likes the explanation that one faction was represented in white while its opposition was represented in red. The pink is another symbolic joining.
The Plaza de Mayo is surrounded by buildings and palaces that represent Spanish rule, Argentine government, protests, and independence.
The statue shows General Manuel Belgrano. He was important in Argentina’s war of independence and is considered a founding father.

The rocks at the base of the statue represent every person in Buenos Aires who died from Covid. I asked about the government’s Covid response and our guide said it was horrible. They were on lockdown for about two years and didn’t receive vaccinations until six months after they were available in the US.

Belgrano was the designer of the Argentinian flag in 1812. His version did not have the Sun of May emblem at the center which was added in 1818.

The May Pyramid is the oldest national monument in the city. It was constructed in 1811 to celebrate the 1810 revolution. Notice the scarves on the pavement at the bottom of the picture.

These scarves represent the older women who marched two by two (because more than two was not allowed) in the 1970s. They marched to protest the disappearance of so many citizens during military governance.

From the square, we walked to the Municipal Cathedral, more formerly named IGLESIA SANTÍSIMA TRINIDAD EN BUENOS AIRES or the Catedral of Buenos Aries.

The cathedral was beautiful, as so many are.

Notice the silver on the pulpit and altar.

This cathedral was where Jorge Mario Bergoglio served before becoming Pope Francis. In Argentina he is called Papa Francisco.


We were able to see the daily military honor for interred Argentinian war hero General José de San Martín. In the early 1800s, San Martin helped lead revolutions against Spanish rule in Argentina, Chili and Peru.
Opposition and independence were repeated themes in what we saw and heard.

We saw many representations of another opposition figure – Mafalda. She was created in Buenos Aries in the 1950s to resist the positions of the military and far right. As an “eight year old who disliked soup” she gave voice to concerns of the people. We saw her in numerous places on our tour. She is still very popular in all of South America.
While we were waiting to take my picture with Mafalda, there was a Brazilian family in front of us and a half dozen couples behind us.

Our guide, Mili, (also pictured) said the line up for pictures can be an hour or more long. Mafalda’s friends represent different segments of the population.


This wasn’t a food tour, but we did stop at a shop selling dulce de leche, a very popular treat in Argentina. It is similar to caramel, often infused with flavoring. It can be eaten on ice cream, bread, waffles, and many other ways, including on a spoon.

One souvenir shop was giving out samples of sandwich cookies using dulce de leche. The samples were delicious.


From there we went to an area called Caminito where dockworkers and immigrants lived and gathered when they first came into Buenos Aires. It is a very colorful tourist area today.

That is Messi, the Argentine footballer (soccer hero) holding the trophy!

We saw more representations of Mafalda and Pope Francis.

We saw this mural representing the protest led by grandmothers on the Plaza de Mayo.

This is a souvenir of the soccer stadium in this part of Buenos Aries. We had already passed on an opportunity to stop and take a picture at the stadium, but then Mili told us a great story. The soccer team from this area did not have team colors for a long time after they began playing. When they eventually thought they needed colors, they decided to adopt the colors of the flag on the next ship that came into port. It was a Swedish ship so their colors were blue and yellow. For many years, Swedish nationals were given free admission into the stadium.

We stopped outside the University of Buenos Aires law school. School was not in session so it was very quiet. There are campuses all over the city for various colleges within the university system. Students attend for free, even international students. Mili guessed that the student body was 80-90 percent Argentinian.



We walked to the nearby Floralis Generica, a gift to the city from a former student. The petals are made from aircraft metal and can open and close for day and night. Because of the expense of operating the flower, it is now left open.


One of the nice things about a private tour is that the itinerary can be modified. Recoleta Cemetery wasn’t on Mili’s itinerary, but was of interest to me because it is so often mentioned as a place to visit in Buenos Aires. Evita Peron is entombed at the cemetery which is why most foreigners seek it out.


It was unlike any cemetery we had seen before with family crypts (all above ground) and narrow passages. Most were well kept.

Our guide said people of any religion and nationality can be interred there – if they could buy a location. Even English speaking females were allowed. The plots are all sold but families who own one can continue to place family members.

Mili told us about Rufina who dropped dead and was put in a casket in her family’s mausoleum. A night watchman heard screaming coming from the area. By the time they looked within that mausoleum and casket, Rufina really was dead. There were scratches on her face and the top of the casket. She is now believed to have suffered an epileptic seizure, not understood at the time. She is shown trying to get past the door of the mausoleum.


These pictures are of the Duarte family mausoleum in which the remains of Evita Peron are kept. It is less ostentatious than I would have thought, but this is her family’s crypt, not that of the Peron family. Our guide said Evita never said the words “Don’t Cry for Me, Argentina.” She did give a speech that could have been reasonably summarized that way, but not literally.

This young woman died in an avalanche in Europe. At the very same moment her dog died in Argentina. They are interred together in this place.

The last stop on our tour was the El Ateneo bookstore. Mili repeated how very important reading and bookstores are in Buenos Aires, something I mentioned in the trip prep post.

The El Ateneo took over a former performance theater and made it into a very elegant space.

There were a few books in English.
We were happy with our tour and also happy with a relaxing afternoon.
Our evening activity was an Early Dinner and Tango Show. Early meant dinner at 7:00 for tourists as opposed to a more typical 9:00 or 10:00!
Our guide told us there is a difference of opinion about whether tango originated in Argentina or Uruguay. What is certainly true is that it developed along the river they share.


Once the show began, Randy recognized two of the dancers as people we had an unpleasant experience with earlier in the day.
While in Caminito, a female tango dancer put a hat on Randy and pulled him around for posed photos. Then her male partner did the same with me. It took 3-4 minutes tops. It was obviously a pay for photos moment and Randy rolled his eyes and paid the requested $20. It wasn’t worth arguing about until she demanded another $20 for her partner. Randy refused, Mili came to see what was up, and we walked away. We scoffed at our own foolishness and deleted the pictures because why would we want to remember that unpleasantness.

Go forward eight hours and there they were on stage – the woman on the left and the man on the right.


We enjoyed the other performers more than them.

Overall, the food was good and we enjoyed chatting with those at our table who were preparing to embark on Princess cruise to Antarctica the next day.
Next up: We head north to Iguaźu Falls.

































































































































































































































































































































