On board the Viking Venus, we had signed up for a phone alert for when the crew see the lights during the night. Some people got the alert at 4:00 a.m. but we had not.  We had been fortunate enough to see the lights during our two nights in Tromsø, so we were fine with sleeping!

Today was our first day in Alta, Norway. It is believed by some to be the northernmost “city” in the world.  With a population of about 20,000 people, it gained “city” status in 2000 after combining two smaller communities. 

There are only 1.4 people per square mile in this most northern county of Norway.

The drinking water quality in Alta is consistently the best in Norway. Drinking water quality in Norway is consistently the best (or second best) in the world.

The municipality of Alta provides ice skates, tents, canoes, camping gear etc. free of charge for the health and recreation of its citizens. 

Salmon season fishing attract visitors from all over the world.  There is a salmon lottery for locals with tickets costing about $100.  The cost for guest fishermen along desired stretches of the river goes for $5000.   

Alta is at the same latitude as Barrow, Alaska but has more population and a more hospitable lifestyle because of the Gulf Stream.  Unlike Alaska, there are not many bear.  There are moose, wolverine, wolf and fox.  There are reindeer in this region owned by the Sami.

Our activity for the morning was to tour a Sami camp.  It was a bit cold!  The temperature is shown in Celsius but equates to about 1.4 degrees Fahrenheit. 

While on our bus ride we all clapped for the sun making a real appearance for the first time in over a week for us, and for the first time in two months for those living in this part of Norway! 

We had been told that Sami culture can be identified from 2000 years past as the only recognized indigenous group in Norway.  The Sami are the only ones allowed to own and hunt reindeer.

In 1968-82, a conflict erupted in Norway about building a dam in the area.  The controversy grew because of how it would affect the Sami, an indigenous group that lives in areas of Norway, Finland, Sweden and Russia. 

A smaller dam was eventually built but the process led to a total overhaul of awareness and representation for Sami, allowing for some exclusive protections, including their ability to own and hunt reindeer.

The Sami Village we visited has 200 people and 99 percent are Sami. 

They are encouraged to marry within the community but it is not required.  

Our Sami host came on board the bus to give us an orientation before we got out.

This family’s main reindeer herd is about 70 kilometers away for the winter. 

The reindeer survive on natural lichen and grass found beneath the snow.  They are fed other food only if dire conditions necessitate. The reindeer are herded by snowmobile and dogs.

We were in the old fashioned lavau for hot tea and storytelling. Jo and Flynn are on the left.

They took a picture of us, while I took a picture of them.

We got ready for our reindeer ride and were the most layered up that we had been yet on the trip.  We had purchased winter gear at REI and were using all of that and more. We had three layers below our waist and four layers for our torso.  We had glove liners, wool outer gloves and electronic hand warmers because, of course, we had to have some kind of electronic component!

The only time on this trip that I felt exceptionally cold (my feet) was on our reindeer ride. 

Our sleigh ride was about 30 minutes and it was very lovely.

Cold, but very lovely!

The Sami, of course, are very used to the cold and seemed not to be bothered at all.

Following our ride, we had lunch in their new cement lavau. 

We were the very first tour group to use it.

The reindeer stew, including potatoes and carrots, was quite good.  It was served with bread and butter.

For desert we had a cinnamon topped cake with cream and berries.

We learned that only within the last 100 years ago have Sami people been allowed to own land and practice their culture openly.  

We went back to the ship and warmed up before our evening tour. The atrium area was near the gangway and our string duo still had to play!

Our evening tour was a recital at the Northern Lights Cathedral.  On the way we heard once again that using seatbelts is mandatory.  We heard it every time we were on a bus in Norway.  If the police stop the bus, and we’ve been so advised, it is the tourist that pays the fine – about $120.

Our evening guide told us that when Alta became a city (20,000 population) in 2000, they felt they needed a new landmark. Because Alta was considered the City of Northern Lights, they wanted something to reflect that status.

It took years to get the church designed and cost $11,000,000 to build.

There are 40,000 interlocking titanium plates on the outside.  They are self cleaning and reflect the light.

The floor is made of German Oak.  It worked well until last summer when there were high temperatures and humidity resulting in some sections expanding and popping out.

Jesus was designed to be looking up to heaven as a more positive vibe than the typical Jesus on the cross. 

The sun sets on his face. 

One of his hands is a fist to represent struggle while the other is open to represent welcome. The statue was made in Tuscany, Italy and the building was built around it.

These 12 pictures might represent the 12 apostles or the 12 Jewish tribes or just twelve biblical looking pictures.  No one is really sure.

The golden ladder represents Jacob’s ladder or a way to heaven. Interpretations seem a bit loose.

The church opened in 2013 but the inner structure is made of concrete so they had to wait a year for it to cure before installing the organ.

The Northern Lights Church is a Lutheran church with services but is also a concert hall for the city. 

We were able to enjoy a concert by a Russian organist and composer Irina Girunyan, who lives in Alta.   Honestly, some of the music was very strange but we don’t know enough to determine whether the strangeness was the Norwegian composer’s work, or her interpretation of it, or our very unsophisticated exposure to any organ music outside of Christian hymns and Phantom of the Opera.

After a very good, but cold day,  it was nice to come back to the ship and off to bed early.  We watched the evening’s music show from there. (Broadcasting events live to the staterooms is one of the things we like about Viking Ocean cruises.)

At 11:00 pm we had an alert that the northern lights were spotted off the port side.  Our cabin was on starboard and we were warm and not getting out of bed.  It was shocking how blasé we had gotten about seeing the lights after out two successful nights!

We were in Alta on January 19, 2024.

Next up: We learn about this part of Norway during World War II and see more lights!