Smokey Bear: There’s More to the Story

fullsizeoutput_4208I grew up with the story of Smokey Bear.  I even taught Smokey’s story as a kindergarten teacher. A bear cub was rescued during a forest fire and nursed back to health. He was named Smokey and became a messenger for the prevention of forest fires. Those basics are still there, but there is much more.

Smokey’s story actually begins in World War II. Forest resources were critical to the war effort and there was great concern about enemy attacks. After a Japanese submarine landed shells near Los Padres National Forest in southern California, the forest service created the Cooperative Fire Prevention Program.

The Wartime Advertising Council looked for an animal to lead the fire prevention message and used Walt Disney’s Bambi for one year. In 1944, after considering a squirrel,  they decided to use a bear and named him Smokey.

 

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This was Smokey’s first slogan.

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This message began in 1947.

fullsizeoutput_4219So what about the little bear cub in the fire we all know about?   It wasn’t until 1950 that he was rescued near Capitan, New Mexico. He was badly burned on his paws and buttocks and he weighed five pounds.

The cub was taken to a veterinarian in Santa Fe by Ray Bell, a pilot with New Mexico Fish and Game.  A local newspaperman nicknamed the little bear Hot Foot Teddy.  The veterinarian was able to treat the burns but the little bear wasn’t eating.  Ray Bell took the bear home where his wife and daughter nursed the bear every two hours and restored him to health.

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The photographer used the honey on the chin trick for this photo.

When word of the cub spread, California wanted him as a living symbol of their flag. The United States Forest Service wanted him as a living representative of their campaign bear, Smokey.  The New Mexico game warden made the decision to send the cub to Washington DC.

With no budget to transport the little cub, Trans World Airlines (TWA) was approached and they agreed to take little Smokey to Washington as freight but would not fly an attendant.  Bill Piper of Piper Aircraft Co. came to the rescue sending a brand new plane to fly Smokey and his human tender to the National Zoo in Washington, D.C.

Smokey began his work for the Forest Service and children came to know him and his message.

fullsizeoutput_4220Another New Mexico orphaned black bear, Goldie, was brought to the zoo to be Smokey’s mate in 1961. She was also known as Mrs. Smokey. They never had cubs.

Smokey lived and worked at the National Zoo as a Federal employee of the Forest Service. He retired in 1975 at age 25, the bear age equivalent of 70 in human years, the mandatory retirement age for federal employees.  He was officially a member of the National Association of Retired Federal Employees.

fullsizeoutput_420aSmokey died a year later and his remains were returned to Capitan, New Mexico and buried at the Smokey Bear Historical Park.

fullsizeoutput_420bWhen Smokey retired another New Mexico orphan cub went to the National Zoo.  The new Little Smokey embodied the message until his death in 1990 when live bear representation was discontinued.

From 1950 forward, millions of children in the United States and around the world grew up with Smokey’s fire prevention message. In 1992, a Forest Service review considered the prevention message to have been very successful as human wildfires were reduced by half even though use of public lands increased tenfold. In fact, the message was so successfully received that the public had difficulty understanding that natural and prescribed fires were beneficial.

fullsizeoutput_4223At the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta we talked extensively with the current coordinator of the Friends of Smokey Bear Balloon. He told us how the original thought of a Smokey balloon slowly gained momentum and was eventually approved by the US Forest Service. A public and government partnership funded the original Smokey balloon which took flight over the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta in1993.

fullsizeoutput_4224In addition to hundreds of appearances around the country, the Smokey Bear Balloon was the first non-Disney balloon invited to fly over Walt Disney World.

The original Smokey balloon snagged a radio tower at the 2005 Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta and was destroyed.

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The first Smokey Bear Balloon is also buried at the Smokey Bear Historical Park.

fullsizeoutput_419aWith public support, funds were raised for a second Smokey Bear Balloon. It continues to make dozens of appearances each year.   That balloon is aging and the future is uncertain. The Friends of Smokey Bear Balloon organization have the “rights” to the image but funding a new balloon and continuing operations going forward look challenging.

We are hoping for a future that includes Smokey Bear for our grandson and yours!

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“It’s Amazing!!”

fullsizeoutput_4198It’s Amazing!   That is what we said over and over again at the Albuquerque Balloon Fiesta.

fullsizeoutput_41d5We decided a year ago to meet Art and Beth at the Fiesta and coordinated arrival so we were parked side by side. Beth arranged a balloon flight and had a great time. We paid big bucks to fly over Lake Tahoe previously so didn’t plan to do so again.

 

fullsizeoutput_419c Friends Gerry and Kathy are balloon crew and Fiesta veterans. They advised, encouraged and provided opportunities and experiences that we never expected.  Kathy was a fount of information about individual balloons and Gerry knew everything about the science of it all. They helped make the Fiesta an amazing experience

fullsizeoutput_41a6Through them we met Cheryl, a balloon pilot and instructor.  She is also a member of the Fiesta Board of Directors.  In addition to providing entry passes, Cheryl told us stories about security, sponsorship, statistics, volunteering and the design process for their balloon Twisted.

fullsizeoutput_4199 Her husband, Fred, is the pilot for Twisted, the balloon Gerry and Kathy crew for. We were invited to come out and crew.

fullsizeoutput_41f1The process looks complicated to a novice.  A dozen people were preparing Twisted for flight.

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My task was to loosely velcro the crown piece.  The pilot needs to be able to pull the crown away to release air for descent.  I  asked Kathy to double check me because I didn’t want to make a mistake!   This picture is inside the balloon looking up.

fullsizeoutput_41deRandy had the job others didn’t want when it’s cold outside – standing in front of the fans for the initial inflation process!

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Randy was invited to fly with Fred and Kathy!

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Zebras, in all manners of black and white, give permission for launch.

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Randy aboard Twisted!

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His picture of the launch field.

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Randy found our home for the Fiesta, the Montana in the middle.  The temporary RV park has 30 amp power and water, a shuttle to the launch field,  and is close to the action!

fullsizeoutput_41b5 Art, happily babysitting Elko while Randy and I crewed, noticed Twisted heading toward a nearby field and walked over.  Elko found his dad in the balloon!

fullsizeoutput_41b4We spent two amazing mornings sitting at our campsite watching waves of balloons come over us.  With 550+ balloons at the Fiesta,  we were always noticing one we hadn’t seen before!

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Elko enjoyed the balloons!

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A balloon eclipse!

Special shapes are fun!   Next time we will plan to be there on special shapes day!

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After sunset, we enjoyed the night glows and fireworks.

Enjoy the night glow video!

fullsizeoutput_4190We enjoyed learning about the America’s Challenge Gas Balloon Race, one of only two distance races for gas balloons in the world.  The America’s Challenge was founded in Albuquerque in 1995.  The balloons are white to lessen the impact of heating and cooling  and filled with hydrogen, the lightest of gases.

 

fullsizeoutput_41c1Balloons launch consecutively from the same stage holding two pilots, oxygen, and all the gear needed for a 3-4 day flight. They have sand and water ballast.

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The yellow box holds tracking equipment to monitor the balloon’s location – important information for race monitors and their chase crew!

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A gas balloon uses a closed envelope.  The pilot tries to balance winds, ballast and gas usage for flight length and direction.

Balloon routes were available on the Festival App and we monitored the race many times each day!

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Eight teams, four American and four international, competed.   These are landing sites.

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AC-1 and AC-6 were back and forth for most of the race!

fullsizeoutput_41d7At the Balloon Museum we learned about the first balloon flight in France with a crew of a duck, sheep and rooster.  We learned about a failed attempt to land in the arctic and the beginnings of the Albuquerque Fiesta.   We learned about milestone flights across the country, across the Pacific, across the Atlantic and around the world.   We learned about balloons used in warfare.

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We also learned about the Albuquerque box, a unique combination of topography and winds that sometimes allow a balloon to take off and land on the same field.  It’s amazing!

fullsizeoutput_4193We experienced another amazing thing away from the Fiesta grounds – a Musical Highway.   We traveled east of Albuquerque on Route 66.  Once there, Randy drove on the rumble strip at exactly 45 miles per hour and we heard America the Beautiful.    A video from youtube is here.     Other Musical Highways are in Japan,  South Korea and Denmark.   The only other Musical Road in the US, is in Lancaster, California, playing the William Tell Overture.   We’ll get there!

So much is amazing!

 

 

 

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Four Corners – We Pick Colorado

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The title sounds as though we went to Four Corners, whirled the spinner, and chose Colorado.  Although some people travel that way, we don’t. Colorado was pre-planned but Four Corners wasn’t.

fullsizeoutput_415bWe had both been to Four Corners before, the only place in the US where four states meet.   We remembered a parking lot with a medallion and were ambivalent about going again. But when the sign says you are only five miles away – why not?

fullsizeoutput_4159A  lot has changed in 40 years. It is now marketed,  requires $5 per person admission, and has a full complex with booths. It is actually quite nice.

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Supposedly you are only allowed to take three photos. 

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It isn’t all fun and games.

After finding our campground in Cortez, our first stop was Montezuma Veterinary Clinic. Elko had been fussing with his ears and we found he has a double ear infection. Poor boy.  He’s had ear drops for several days now and is improving.

In our first adventure out of Cortez, we drove an hour west to Hovenweep National Monument.  During our drive on the plateau, we had wildlife sightings!

fullsizeoutput_4162Randy saw this tarantula crossing the road so we turned around and took pictures! It was about 3 inches wide and five inches long.

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Later, we saw open range horses. There was a herd of 10 horses and these two were quite comfortable in the road. They weren’t concerned as we moved slowly by.

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We made it to Hovenweep National Monument and were surprised at the crowd. This place is an hour from anywhere but the parking lot was almost full.

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Unlike most national park sites, Elko was welcome to walk the trails. 

 

fullsizeoutput_4169At Hovenweep we saw remnants of Ancestral Puebloan culture in the form of round and square towers.fullsizeoutput_4175

 

 

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There were outlines of multi-room pueblos and tumbling rocks.

The Four Corners region was occupied by Ancestral Puebloans (previously called Anasazi) between 700 and 1300 when the peoples abandoned the region for unknown reasons.

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The ruins at Hovenweep were thought to be built and occupied between 1230 and 1275.

fullsizeoutput_4176The ruins were discovered in 1854 by a Mormon expedition and later named Hovenweep for the Piute/Ute word for “deserted valley.”  The ruins were surveyed by Smithsonian Institution representatives in 1917-18 and designated a national monument in 1923.

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There are a number of similar ruins in the area on BLM land designated Canyons of the Ancients. It takes a little effort to get there, but is worth the trip!

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Moab, Monument Valley and Movies

Southern Utah is a favorite region for us because of superb scenery and interesting cultures. This week we visited an old favorite, Moab, and a new favorite, Monument Valley.   You may not have physically been to either, but you’ve been there in movies, TV shows, and commercials.

fullsizeoutput_40dfWe have visited Moab several times and have wandered Arches and Canyonlands National Parks quite extensively. Randy went into Arches one afternoon and hiked to Delicate Arch but we also did some new things!

fullsizeoutput_40e6We enjoyed a Canyonlands Sunset Cruise with Rory – one of the most engaging tour guide boat captains we have ever experienced.

fullsizeoutput_40f6We saw people brave enough to climb these steep cliffs –  65% of climbers are female!

fullsizeoutput_40f8We saw jug arch, petroglyphs and amazing scenery. Dinner was pretty good too.

fullsizeoutput_40fdBy truck, we traveled the Upper Colorado River Scenic Byway out of Moab through more marvelous scenery. The first few miles out of Moab have an adjacent bike trail.

fullsizeoutput_40f1We hiked a bit and saw some climbers way up on this rock!

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Climber is about half way up on the right side!

P1120895We traveled to Red Cliffs Ranch Lodge and the Moab Museum of Film and Western Heritage.  We learned more than 120 movies were filmed in this area.  Former owner of the site, George White, was instrumental in bringing the first movie, Wagonmaster, to the area in 1949.

Many movies, TV shows and commercials were filmed on White Ranch and the surrounding area. White worked for the Utah Highway Department and was instrumental in finding locations for film crews. He was also the founder of the Moab to Monument Valley Film Commission, the longest tenured movie commission in the world.

fullsizeoutput_4150The film industry has been a source of income in the Moab area for many years as locals are hired as actors, extras and professional crew.  Animals and trainers are also employed. An auto tour allows you to find specific locations for movies and shows.

fullsizeoutput_411eMovies, TV shows and commercials continue to be a lucrative industry for both Moab and Monument Valley.  The movie industry came to Monument Valley during the great depression.  Harry Goulding, owner of the local trading post, sought additional industry for himself and the Navajo people and spent his last $60 to take landscape pictures to John Ford in Hollywood. The rest is history.

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Harry and Leona “Mike” Goulding – photo by Josef Muensch   Harry said he couldn’t spell Leona’s name, so he called her Mike.

Harry Goulding and his wife “Mike” came to the area in the 1920s, established their trading post and lived and worked with the Navajo for the next 40 years.  Although deceased,  both are still remembered fondly by local Navajo.  The new owners of the Gouldings enterprise value the past.

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The former Trading Post is now a museum.

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John Wayne’s Cabin is from the movie “She Wore A Yellow Ribbon.”

The immediate area holds a lodge, gift shop, grocery store, restaurant, theater, gas station, chapel and campground – all under the name of Gouldings.

fullsizeoutput_4144We had one of the nicest sites in this campground and enjoyed some easy and accessible hiking within walking distance.

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Randy, wearing a yellow shirt, is right in the middle of the picture way up on the rock – because that is what he does….

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Sunrise view of Monument Valley from our campsite

Although we have a view of Monument Valley from our campsite, we wanted to see more.  Monument Valley is a Navajo Tribal Park and some areas are publicly available with an entrance fee.   Other areas are available only with a Navajo guide. We opted for the whole experience and are very glad we did!

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For $73 each we had a very enjoyable 4 hours with our guide Carol.  She told us about growing up in the valley and being forced to go away to boarding school as a young girl of seven.

 

We saw arches and wild horses and hogans.

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This young woman demonstrated carding and spinning wool and explained weaving and Navajo designs.

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Navajo families live in Monument Valley.

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This is the area where John Wayne’s The Searchers was filmed.

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We saw petroglyphs!

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An enterprising young man asked for tips to pose for this iconic picture.  You can pay more to be in the photo yourself.

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Gotta have Fry Bread!   I shared with Randy.

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We really enjoyed our trip to Monument Valley!

The beauty of this area isn’t exclusive to Monument Valley.  We found two other areas that especially appealed to us.

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Mexican Hat rock is near the town of Mexican Hat.

fullsizeoutput_4116Goosenecks State Park has dry camping right on the bluff overlooking the river.  Some sites are worth not having hook-ups for.  Maybe next time!

Southern Utah NEVER disappoints!

 

 

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Repair and Replace

Repair and Replace has been the theme of our month in Boise as Randy and the problematic things on our fifth-wheel have been “fixed.”

Randy’s recheck and maintenance treatments went as well as we could have hoped. Physical results, chemical results and three maintenance treatments all went very well. We feel blessed and appreciate the prayers and support. He feels fine (as he always has) and we are “excused” until December 7th when the cycle starts again.   So Randy is “repaired” but will not be replaced!

 

Even if Randy wasn’t worth keeping for other reasons, he surely has upped his game in the handy Randy role during the last few weeks. He repaired both bikes and the bike rack and replaced the ladder damaged in our backward collision with the tree in Missouri.

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The new ladder cost $144. Shipping was $238!  It wasn’t heavy – just bulky!

 

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Actually using the ladder you just installed….

P1120758When he was on top he noticed a damaged vent cover and screws that needed to be counter-sunk and covered.   And then he fixed the water heater and on and on.   It seemed the repair jobs would never end!

P1120776Randy also buffed out oxidation and waxed our entire fifth wheel. It was a HUGE job but looks so much better!

fullsizeoutput_40d6Elko frequently supervised Randy’s work but one day decided to walk to the river on his own and go swimming.  Elko has never done anything like that before and the adventure was an unwelcome surprise to his people.  Randy found him pretty quickly but after that Elko had to be attached to our trailer.  Elko thinks the penalty is far greater than his transgression.

The damaged shower pan we told you about in the last blog was replaced by Nelson’s RV in Boise under our extended warranty. The warranty company had a $1000 bill and we had one for $260.  We had a $50 deductible and $200+ for shipping.  Again with the shipping!  We were displaced for the day to our friends Darrell and Cindy’s home. That was the morning after they had a water line problem so Randy helped Darrell dig a 4 x 4 x 4 foot hole for the plumber.

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Randy  was glad to help and felt badly he didn’t go back to help fill in the pit.

It wasn’t all work though. We had a great time taking our grandson to a movie and dinner once a week.    We did some normal Boise summer things like going to the Idaho Shakespeare Festival courtesy of friends Deb and John.  We also enjoyed seeing many of our Boise friends as always.

Also very normal was having a great time over Labor Day weekend at Lake Cascade State Park with Darrell and Cindy.  We have spent many fine holiday weekends together in our favorite sites.

fullsizeoutput_40adWe broke out the inflatable paddle board!

fullsizeoutput_40aeWe had started thinking about Lake Cascade as a place to volunteer next summer and made contact with the park manager. We used to wonder why anyone would volunteer so close to home and now we have applied to do that very thing!  The park has a variety of campgrounds and is just a couple hours from Boise.  The location would be convenient for day trips to Boise and Randy’s medical follow-up which continues into next summer.

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All the western fires made it smokey at Lake Cascade.

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Sun spots!

We went north to McCall and enjoyed a Nine and Dine with friends Rodger and Donna. The course was beautiful, the meal was delicious and the skies were still smokey.

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I just love this picture.  It is so Idaho!

fullsizeoutput_40ceOur friend Karen treated me to something new! We had a wonderful evening at Fuel for the Soul! It is part cooking class, part delicious dinner and part great conversation.

Boise foodies, check it out! I look forward to going again when we return to Boise next spring.

We are headed to the Boise State football game this evening and then begin a road trip toward Albuquerque and the Balloon Festival tomorrow.   Hopefully we won’t have anymore repair and replace drama!   Randy needs a break – where his big task is to just drive.

 

 

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Randy and Trip Facts

Randy had his bladder cancer re-check today and it went well. The doctor said “That’s a good looking bladder.”   We are very thankful!

The second part of today’s exam was a urine cytology which we will hear on next week. His maintenance treatments are schedule for three consecutive Fridays beginning  August 25.

Barring something changing after the cytology results, our plan is to be in the Boise area until September 15 after which we are free to travel until his next check up on December 7th.    Before I work on plans for the next trip, lets look back at some random facts on the last one!

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Boise to Elkhart and back — 4102 miles

Truck miles driven: 5348                   Fuel: 456 gallons,   11.7 mpg

Days on the road: 36

  • Three night stops: 3
  • Two night stops: 11
  • One night stops: 5
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We visited 10 states and earned three new state stickers – Iowa, Kansas and Missouri 

Repairs on the Truck:  Two unplanned, one planned

First, the exhaust manifold repair left us Diverted and Delayed in Wyoming.  Fortunately the repair was relatively quick and successful.

A semi-related second issue has arisen that has our truck sounding like it has flatulence.  It isn’t a required repair but is way too embarrassing to live with.   That repair is pending.

We have a significantly cracked windshield but purposely waited until after this trip to install a new one.  That is scheduled.

Repairs on the Trailer:

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The reason for the trip! One planned repair successfully completed in Elkhart, IN –  Independent suspension and new tires. Randy is very happy with both!

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One unplanned repair in process: We developed a cracked shower pan. Even though it was tempting for Randy to replace it himself, the costs just didn’t justify that decision.  The shower pan was reasonable at $235 but the $350 shipping fee wasn’t.    We are in the process of an extended warranty repair. The shower pan has been ordered and the day long installation should happen before we leave Boise mid September.  Meanwhile, Handy-Randy did a temporary fix.

fullsizeoutput_3fbfOne self-inflicted – unplanned repair in process – our Missouri Oops!  The new ladder has been ordered and Randy will install it when it gets here.  He is working on getting my bike wheel repaired or replaced. He has begun research on a new bike rack and bike for himself.

Even with some unplanned events to manage, it was a great trip! We enjoyed seeing friends and family along the way. We saw some great places and learned interesting things.  It was very nice to be away from the medical stuff for a while!

After all the money we spent on and as a result of this trip, we got an interesting surprise when we picked up five weeks of mail at the UPS store that is our mailing address. We got a check from Norcold!

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There has been a class action lawsuit against Norcold claiming a design flaw in their RV refrigerators which cause an increased risk of fire. It has been going on for years. We qualified to join the lawsuit and did. (In the meantime Randy completed two fixes which minimize our risk for a refrigerator fire.)

A settlement was reached last fall and we were told we’d get some money eventually. Eventually was almost a year later!  When we returned we had a check for $228.90 It was the first of four installments which will total $927.75!

Whoo-hoo! It won’t begin to pay for this trip, but it more than paid for Handy-Randy’s refrigerator fixes!

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Colorado Intrigue

On this last week of our road trip we made it to Colorado. We are now very intrigued with the idea of spending a lot more time in Colorado. We drove past a number of venues that landed on our to do list!

fullsizeoutput_4069It helped that our first park, Lake Pueblo State Park, was terrific! The sites were huge and the views were expansive.

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Daisies were everywhere!

fullsizeoutput_4064I found a very nice Safeway!  It was the nicest grocery store I’ve been to on the whole trip. I confess to being a grocery store snob. I like new, clean, well-stocked stores that have a Starbucks. Although not every Safeway is this nice, I always look for them.

fullsizeoutput_406cOne evening we watched a storm roll in. We watched for too long because the next thing we knew we were getting wet through our ceiling vent. It closes automatically when it detects rain but the wind was blowing so hard that it couldn’t.

Randy was trying to help it close and keep the water out while I was wiping up the water coming in through our window weeping holes.

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That’s us in the white circle in the pink!  We had an intense ten minutes with strong winds, rain and hail. Fortunately there was no tornado warning.

fullsizeoutput_4072The next morning we had to go searching for Elko’s water bucket and were surprised to find it!

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Elko was hiding because he didn’t want to leave – although that isn’t about Colorado.  He just doesn’t like travel days.  Poor guy…

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Our terrific site and view!

I talked with the camp host who said they were enjoying their experience but had 98 sites by themselves. Whew! That is a lot but we liked the park well enough to consider it in the future.

fullsizeoutput_4097Next we traveled to Curecanti National Recreation Area near Gunnison. We had a nice site there too. Our big event was the National Park Service Morrow Point Boat Tour.    Once you get to the parking lot you go down 232 steps to water level.

fullsizeoutput_4079Then you walk a mile along the old railroad grade until you find the boat.

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fullsizeoutput_407fWe had a delightful tour learning about the geology and history of the area. We learned about the quest to build the narrow gauge Denver- Rio Grande Railroad through the Black Canyon Gorge. It was so difficult that a number of men died and eventually they had to bring in foreign labor.  Beginning in 1882, the railroad hauled ore, coal, livestock and passengers for 67 years.

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Later it was used as a tourist train – the most Scenic Line of the World.

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We saw some interesting rock cliffs!

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Curecanti Point

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A waterfall!

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Old telegraph equipment.

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And an Eagle!

It was a great trip even though we then had to go up those 232 steps!

If Colorado is so Colorful, why are their signs so plain?  And why are people putting travel stickers on the Utah sign?

fullsizeoutput_409aWe arrived at Green River State Park in Utah which has a golf course on site. Randy doesn’t golf often but this was so convenient! He came by mid-round for a Guinness.

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When our neighbors pulled in they had one of those “I can’t believe I did that” moments when the gentleman closed the tailgate and started to pull forward before he had cleared the trailer hitch. Randy was over there for a while helping him get it cleared. No condemnation here!  Everyone has those moments – like our Missouri Oops!

(In an interesting add on:  The next night Randy was out there again helping ANOTHER couple in site 25!  This time an Airstream trailer door/ lock wouldn’t work and they couldn’t get in.  The woman finally went in and out through a window but they still couldn’t open the door.  They eventually did get the door to open but then couldn’t get it to reliably open/close/ lock.   Randy assisted for over an hour last night in finding a temporary solution to getting their door/lock functional until they can get the issue fixed.    The site is jinxed – avoid it!)

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In Green River we spent time at the John Wesley Powell River History Museum. Powell was a one-armed former civil war officer who led an expedition along the Green and Colorado Rivers in 1869. The Colorado River area was the last unexplored area in the US and maps designated it as such.

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Powell’s  first expedition had boat and rapids challenges and lost much of their provisions. Three members left and were killed by Paiute Indians. The expedition became one of survival (Mormon settlers assisted them with food) but they eventually became the first to traverse the Grand Canyon by boat.

Powell later led a second expedition that focused on scientific, photographic and mapping goals. Many of the canyons and landmarks along the Green and Colorado Rivers still bear the names given to them by Powell’s expeditions.  In reverse, modern day Lake Powell was named for him.

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The terrific movie at the museum, Journey Into The Great Unknown, inspired us to float the Grand Canyon too! Let’s add some Utah-Arizona intrigue to the mix….

 

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There’s No Place Like….Kansas

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We got Iowa, Missouri and Kansas on this trip!

Dorothy said “There’s no place like home” about her Kansas farm but I didn’t feel the same about my Kansas home. I lived 2 years in Salina while in high school, but routed us through Hutchinson and Dodge City instead.  Tourism over sentiment!

There are eight Wonders of Kansas and two of them are in Hutchinson. We started with the Strataca Salt Mine Museum.

fullsizeoutput_4023Formed when the Permian Sea evaporated 275 million years ago, a massive salt layer spreads across 27,000 square miles of central Kansas.  While looking for oil, a developer found salt.  Mining began in 1923 and continues to this day. The active and previously mined sections cover 1000 acres and include 160 miles of tunnels.

More than half of the current production is sold to Chicago as road salt with the rest going to other states and municipalities for the same purpose. A small amount is used in livestock feed.

We descended 650 feet to the Strataca Museum where you tour areas worked in the 1950s. There is a self guided portion, a train ride, and two shuttles through different sections of the mine.

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6000 pounds of salt crystal

fullsizeoutput_4029Much of the salt in Strataca has brown and red veins – good for roads but not for tables.

fullsizeoutput_402dWe were able to choose salt pieces to take home – or in our case, to our grandson.

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fullsizeoutput_402cWe saw interesting artifacts including gloves from the 1940s with double thumbs. To accommodate war time shortages, gloves were made to be used one way and, when the palm was worn, reversed to use the back side.   Miner gear, boxes and garbage are museum artifacts and not disturbed.

fullsizeoutput_402eBecause it was costly and time consuming to remove, and there was plenty of room,  miners left garbage piles.  These give additional perspective on mine history.   The pile above had a partially eaten sandwich from the 1950s.

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There are thousands of discarded dynamite boxes left in the mine. All are in perfect condition, as though they were used yesterday.

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These boxes were stacked to block an old tunnel with intention to divert air flow.  Miners marked each section with the month and year it was active, initially with carbide and later with paint.  These are still visible.

The salt mine environment is perfect for preserving garbage, boxes and valuables because there are no critters or moisture. There is a constant 70 degree temperature.

fullsizeoutput_4030After the Monuments Men recovered art the Nazis had hidden in European salt mines, a new business was incorporated here in 1959.  Underground Vaults and Storage holds original Hollywood films (including The Wizard of Oz), costumes and props. They also store medical,  financial and insurance records from around the country.  State governments’ and other nations governments’ records are stored here.    It is big business with 65 employees, 2 shifts and nearly 1.7 million square feet of storage – with lots of room to grow!

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There was a whole wall of salt quotes – this was my favorite!

 

 

fullsizeoutput_4035Randy visited Cosmosphere, the second Wonder of Kansas in Hutchinson. It is an affiliate of the Smithsonian National Air & Space Museum. He spent four hours at Cosmosphere and said he barely scratched the surface.

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Looking inside a Saturn 1B Rocket Nozzle!

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The outside of the rocket nozzle.

The Cosmophere has extensive history and artifacts detailing how German rocket technology developed, came to America after WWII, and factored into the Cold War with the Soviet Union.

fullsizeoutput_4038   The Apollo 13 Command Module is at Cosmosphere!  “Houston, we have a problem.”

 

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Eventually, we moseyed across the prairie to Dodge.  Dodge City began as a location for  buffalo traders and became a hub for western cattle drives.  It also became infamous for gunfights, saloons, gambling halls and brothels, including the Long Branch Saloon.

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We enjoyed a sarsaparilla and a show at the Long Branch Saloon.

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In the rough years between 1872-78 known and unknown folks were buried on the hill above Dodge. Several were buried with their boots on, thus the name Boot Hill.

Today the Boot Hill Museum sits on the former cemetery.  (The residents were moved.)

fullsizeoutput_404fThe museum recreated Front Street including the shops and saloons present in 1870.

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We saw a gunfight, but Wyatt Earp and Bat Masterson weren’t around.

fullsizeoutput_4060Neither was Matt Dillon.  There are pictures and artifacts of Gunsmoke but the museum focuses on the real history of Dodge City, not the TV version.

The next time we wander into Kansas, maybe I’ll be drawn to the old home town.  Or maybe we’ll catch the remaining six Wonders of Kansas!

 

 

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Independence: Truman and Trails

We were here for the Mariners-Royals baseball game and the RV park in Independence was the closest to the stadium. We knew a little about Independence. Most western migration left from Independence and Harry Truman was from here but we were all about the baseball game. And some Kansas City BBQ!

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Our first dinner was at A Little BBQ Joint and it was a great meal!

fullsizeoutput_4006We were hesitant to go to the Truman Library and Home since we had been so impressed with the Lincoln versions in Springfield. How could Truman even begin to compare? Despite the lure of Kansas City attractions,  we decided to focus our activities in Independence. And we are glad.  Truman held his own!

Harry S. Truman, our 33rd president, is everywhere in Independence.  This was his home before going to Washington to serve as Senator, Vice President and President and then again until his death. We spent a whole day immersed in everything Truman visiting the county courthouse, the Truman Library and the Truman Home.

fullsizeoutput_3feaHarry grew up in the area and worked in the Clinton Soda Shop as a youth earning $3 a week. (We had lunch and ice-cream there!)  He tried a variety of jobs over the years with little success until he became Jackson County Judge – what we’d consider a county commissioner.

Harry met and fell for Bess when he was six and she was five. They eventually married and moved into her family home. He ran for the US Senate and served 10 years, returning to Independence whenever possible.

fullsizeoutput_4009When Franklin D. Roosevelt was running for his fourth term, Democratic powers questioned whether he would survive the term.  They handpicked Harry Truman as his new vice presidential candidate. Truman served 82 days as Vice President and met with Roosevelt just twice.

Truman inherited a world at war and, in 8 years as president, made decisions to drop atomic bombs on Japan, implement the Marshall Plan, mobilize airlifts during the Berlin Blockade, desegregate the US Armed Forces, be the first to recognize Israel and fire General Douglas McArthur.

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Front

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Back

fullsizeoutput_3ffeHe felt his most difficult decision was to enter the Korean conflict and his greatest regret was the inability to implement a national compulsory health insurance program.

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When Medicare began under the Johnson administration, Harry and Bess got the first two cards.

fullsizeoutput_3ff6The White House was found to be structurally unsound during Truman’s term.  The interior was gutted and rebuilt in a three year project.

These are Harry and Bess Truman’s official portraits.   Bess’ original portrait is in the  Truman Home in Independence.  They took it with them and wouldn’t send it back.  A copy was made and is hanging in Washington, the only copy among originals.

When Harry and Bess returned to Independence, they had very modest means. He had a small military pension but past presidents did not yet receive a pension or secret service protection. Nevertheless, he was able to raise monies for the very first Presidential Library believing that papers and items of his presidency belonged to the people of the United States.

fullsizeoutput_3febThe library displays many of the 1300 letters he wrote to Bess over their years together.

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Harry, Bess and their daughter Margaret are buried on the Library grounds.

Truman’s approval rating at the end of his presidency was 22%. History has been kind to his legacy. Rankings of presidents by historians have him as the sixth best president in US history.

fullsizeoutput_4004Continuing with Independence history, we visited the National Frontier Trails Museum. Most western migration left from Independence in the early and mid 1800s. This included travelers on the Santa Fe,  California and the Oregon Trails. We have a good working knowledge of the California and Oregon trails but were glad to learn about the Santa Fe.

The Santa Fe Trail was a commerce highway between Missouri and Santa Fe, Mexico (later New Mexico). It was a 3 month trip and merchants traveled both ways. Bent’s Fort, an adobe outpost,  was the largest permanent settlement between Missouri and Santa Fe. The trail became obsolete in 1880 with use of the railroad.

fullsizeoutput_4000The most surprising place we visited in Independence was The Community of Christ Temple. It has a very tall spire visible from all over town.

The Community of Christ was originally the Reorganized Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints.   When Joseph Smith was martyred in Nauvoo, Illinois (1844) his church splintered. Brigham Young took most of the believers to Utah. Several groups stayed in the midwest and eventually reorganized under Joseph Smith’s wife Emma and his son Joseph Smith III.

They have a shared history with the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (Mormons) but have evolved quite differently in belief and practice.

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The cross is made of wood from each of the 60 countries with Community of Christ congregations.  The olive branches in the shape of a dove represent their mission of peace.

The Community of Christ’s world headquarters are in Independence, Missouri.  The tour was quite interesting and the temple very unique.

fullsizeoutput_401fOn our last evening in Independence, we went to the baseball game that brought us here.    Kauffman Field is beautiful but the Mariners came up short.

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We went to the game with our campground neighbors Glynn and Judy from Arkansas.

 

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Missouri Oops!

Randy named the blog this time because he (we) had a pretty big Oops!   More on that later…

As we prepared to cross the western border leaving Illinois, I saw an interesting situation on the map.  We left Illinois, crossed over the Mississippi River and came into Missouri. The first city we came to was Louisiana. Kind of a weird four corners region!

 

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And further down the road we came to the city of Mexico!  Nevada is around here somewhere!

fullsizeoutput_3fd2In spite of a GPS error, we made it to our campground and parked.  The ground was soft so Randy wanted to move the trailer slightly to position it better onto the gravel. That is when we had the Oops!  He backed into a tree. I was standing right there but didn’t expect him to go back that far so I share the blame.  Oops!

P1120141My fear, as I ran back to see the damage, was the condition of the big window but it and our trailer structure were fine.

fullsizeoutput_3fbfThe bikes, bike rack and ladder took the damage! The ladder and bike rack will be replaced. We both need new wheels.  Randy will likely replace his bike as he’s wanted to anyway. Overall, a pretty lucky Oops!

fullsizeoutput_3fd1However, the damage to our bikes meant we couldn’t ride the Katy Trail, the longest Rails to Trails route in the country at 225 miles in length.   The trail uses the Missouri-Kansas-Texas (Katy) railroad corridor developed in 1872.

fullsizeoutput_3fd3Franklin Junction served as a prominent railroad site from 1893 until World War II.   The line had diminished use mid-century and was discontinued in the 1980s.  The railroad grade became a Rails to Trails route in the 1990s.   Our campground is on the old junction site.

The crash de-railed potential biking but did result in us meeting our campground neighbors.   They came by to see what happened!  While visiting, we learned about their Vintage Trailer!

 

fullsizeoutput_3fc1Janet wanted a project so she bought a very rough 1964 PlayMor Trailer for $50. She spent $3800 refurbishing it and did a great job! It was Janet’s project but her husband Joe helped a bit.  Another vintage trailer refurbishment is in the works!

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P1120005We met this guy patrolling the campground – Randall Mathews of the New Franklin Police Department.    He and my Randy Matthews chatted and compared notes.  He told us the definitive answer on whether to say Missour-EE or Missour-UH.   North of I-70 the state is called Missour-EE and south of I-70 it is Missour-UH.

So all of this happened in our first afternoon and evening and I haven’t even mentioned the reason we came to this neck of the Missouri woods.   We came to see the Budweiser Clydesdales at Warm Springs Ranch!

fullsizeoutput_3fc6There are five Budweiser Clydesdale ranches but all breeding is done here in Boonville, Missouri.

 

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Stallions are brought in “on assignment” from other Clydsdale breeders around the country for three year terms.   Outside stallions brings new DNA into the herd.

fullsizeoutput_3fcb This is Stan (named for St. Louis Cardinals’ Stan Musial), born and raised on the ranch.   When full grown he will be about 18 hands and weigh 2000 pounds.  He has the desired Budweiser Clydsdale look – bay color, black mane and tail, white blaze on the forehead and white socks.

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The socks are washed and combed but trim happens naturally.

Mares are bred in their third year and deliver 11 months later. Each mare will deliver 7-10 foals in her career. The mares live their entire lives at the ranch.  About 40 foals are born each year.

fullsizeoutput_3fcdThis is Otto. He was born June 7 weighing 125 pounds and standing 3 1/2 feet tall.  Otto was walking around when our tour went through the barn but when we went back 5 minutes later he was napping! Otto will feed on his mama for six months and then be weaned to depend less on milk and more on hay and grains.   (All Budweiser Clydesdales eat Timothy Hay from Eden, Idaho. It is shipped throughout the year to each of the ranches and to all performance locations.)

Foals and yearlings enjoy expansive pastures and undergo light training. Two year old geldings begin more intensive hitch training and eventually go to the New Hampshire ranch for hitch “finishing school.”

fullsizeoutput_3fd7Hitch trained Clydesdales get assignments to one of three regional ranches: – Fort Collins Colorado, St. Louis, Missouri and Merrimack, New Hampshire.

fullsizeoutput_3fccFrom their home ranch, teams of 10 horses (8 pullers and 2 alternates) travel across the region for hundreds of performances. Budweiser has strict guidelines for travel (breaks after 2 hours and no more than 500 miles per day) and stabling. They have their own portable stable if there aren’t local stables meeting their specifications.

Each Hitch team uses three semi-trucks to transport the horses, handlers,  wagon and equipment.  Once on site, it takes the six handler crew four to five hours to groom the horses, equipment and wagons to exacting detail.

fullsizeoutput_3fc9We came away very impressed with the whole operation and especially the “cradle to grave” care for the horses.  After a work life of 8-12 years, horses retire on one of the company ranches or at a handler’s ranch.  Either way, it seems good to be a Budweiser Clydesdale!

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We had a great time on our tour and recommend it highly but plan ahead as it is’t an easy ticket to get.

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The free beer was good too! 

 

 

 

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